Strolling with Nausea through Piccadilly

For a youthful insouciance which I thought playful but they, disrespectful, I was condemned to roam Earth in human form subject to every law of man—not in spite of their illogical, inconsistent, petty, and unfair natures, but precisely because of them.

And what of my services?

I asked with with the full depth of my deathly voice, undiminished by my adolescent dismay.

“As we need you, we will call upon you. But first you must learn obedience.”

Lest I become too comfortable in the human world, I would also, from time to time, suffer the ravages of human disease.

As the sophists of the political class who hock self-serving solutions to problems that don’t exist are keenly aware, humans seek to destroy what they fear. So I take, as my human form, tall, thin, gaunt. I dress in black, my hair is long and unkept. And yet I command attention.

It is early evening and in long wool coat and heavy scarf I walk through the cool of Piccadilly, its electric lamps already lit and promising charm and mystery in place of the fright and danger prevalent a scant year ago. I am inured to the inviting smiles of the young ladies who cross my path, all of whom are particularly lovely, and all of whom seem determined to make their desire for my approval obscenely obvious.

At the entrance to Coventry Street, I approach a Bobby, fit and trim in his pressed black uniform, and wait for him to notice me.

May I vomit here?

I ask him as he lifts his gaze with no small measure of concern upon my pale, clammy complexion.

“Good God, no!” he spits at me in clipped tones, taking a step back and reflexively grabbing hold of his police baton. “This is England. The English do not vomit.”

“Particularly in Westminster,” he adds after a moment of contemplation.

“Move along. Get back to your duties.”

I feel the saliva gathering on my tongue, growing in volume and viscocity, keenly aware of the heat in my head, the pulse that hammers against my temples, the increasing thickness of my esophagus, and even the tilt of the earth, which in the grip of my nausea strikes me as random and ill-advised.

Shuffling up Coventry Street, I gaze hopefully into the storefront windows, but without fail, every single store has prominently posted a sign:

No Vomiting!

A couple feel the need to justify their lack of empathy:

Vomiting for paying patrons, only.

Two retched belches escape my lips, and I exhale weakly. At times I feel that I cannot tolerate another moment, another instant of this nausea. The very plates in my skull yearn to vomit. To wing a fiery incandescent arc across the breadth and depth of that proper, buttoned up street. O that I were a brick upon that street! That I might glory in vomit’s free release, and bounce with joy as the hiss and steam that rose forth into the unsuspecting evening scorches all it touches. The ladies in their bright bonnets realizing too late that they are on fire. Their gentleman escorts too preoccupied with the green phlegm dissolving first the shine, then the leather on their boots to notice. The passengers on the tram uncomprehending as the cobblestones dissolve and part into a chasm, too porous to contain that magma emanating from my entrails seeking only to return to its origin at the center of the Earth.

“I am become Death,” my mouth utters of its own volition.

A smidge of guilt rushes across my conscience as I imagine the devastation the foul effusion of my entrails would wreak upon what is arguably the world’s most admirable civilization in the stature it achieves in the arts, the sciences, and certainly its urban design. Is there any city more mesmerizing than London? And yet, it is built on the fruits of conquest, plunder, and oppression. How many of its conquered and oppressed felt once as I feel now? Felt, a great many of them, a great many millions of them, for the length of their entire plundered life? Are Civilization and Plunder the very soulmates of Empire?

That is too deep a question to pose to a man who only wants to vomit, I quickly decide. A god who has tired of the ancient’s methods of teachings.

“Tell me what you need me to know,” I cry to the heavens of the evening. “Don’t make me guess again and again and again!”

I lean back my head, I hold my arms apart at my side, and I arch my back gloriously. I feel my strength returning. My soul escapes my grip once more and cries out:

Now I am become Death, destroyer of worlds!

photograph by Rick Ramsey

The pavement begins to spin. I begin to float above it. The nausea fades. My soul will do what it will do, my nature worn down by petty lessons. And then a horse snorts.

I force my body to return to earth, where a hoof pounds the stones. Before me, a vision of beauty enslaved. A pale mare speckled with black dots. Her haunches are powerful. Her back cuts a soft, elegant curve into the evening light. She is perfect in her simplicity, the most perfect of God’s creations. Her mane shines lustrous against her coat. Her enormous muscles quiver with restrained rebellion because the length of her hide and the curve of her face are lined with the metal and leather instruments of oppression. They even invade her soft, peaceful, lovely mouth. Her eyes, their field of vision restricted by blinders, stare at me with love. Against the wishes of her gentle driver, she has stopped in front of me, the driver still tapping the reins with a soft touch, not aware yet, that my friend will not move until I understand.

As a courtesy, I do not take long to understand. The horse is more beautiful than I, far more loving than I and, if a god, perhaps more powerful even than I. But she is demonstrating to me the act of obedience. Obedience to the unfathomable will of Almighty God, whether you call Him Krishna, Allah, Adonai, or Heavenly Father. I do not understand that implacable will, I find it all incomprehensibly unjust, but her example has convinced me to accept it. To fail to accept would be an unkindness I could not bring myself to perpetrate upon her.

Once more she snorts. And nods her head at me. An understanding passes between us, and she obeys the gentle but insistent hands of her human master. Are horses angels I wonder as she passes by me, pulling an elegant coach with two passengers mesmerized by the evening lights, unaware of the vicious viscous fate she has spared them. I step off the curb, a belch once more escaping my throat, wretched enough to send chills up my spine, but powerless to disturb the peace in my heart.

Regret the Third: Selling Every Softail Heritage I’ve Ever Owned

Gringo was the second Softail Heritage I’ve owned, the third time I bought one. That’s because I bought Pretty Boy Floyd twice.

The first time I bought Floyd, it was brand new. The second time, five years later, it had about 12,000 miles on it. I would go on to own four different versions of the Heritage.

This is how that happens.

One day, I buy a Softail Heritage, the most beautiful bike Harley makes. Although it does not lean much, I love the bike. It is the perfect motorcycle. It glides. It’s balanced. It’s a work of art. I am a happy motorcyclist. I ride it everywhere. Nice and slow. I pose it for pictures. Because riding is about the moment, about the sights, about the scenery and the people, not about making the asphalt wiz past you as fast as possible.

One day, in my rear view mirror I see a Ducati gaining on me. Rapidly.

By the time I get home, the Heritage Softail is too slow, can’t lean to save its ass, uses ancient technology, makes me look like an old man, and is probably about to break down. What was I thinking when I bought it?

So I sell the slow-ass Harley and buy myself a Ducati. This is my 2005 999S:

Few motorcycles are as visually intoxicating as a Ducati.

Above is the 2019 Monster 1200R that I owned a few years later. Over the years I would go on to own an embarrassing number of Ducatis.

You see, when I turn the key on a desmo 4-valve engine with the 41 degrees of overlap, that heavenly engine explodes, pounds, burbles, and gurgles in a symphony that’s part Ode to Joy, part Stairway to Heaven.

When I throw a leg over the saddle and ride it, I transcend this earthly plane.

Soon I’m looking into track days, fitting myself for track leathers, painting half my face red, and learning Italian. Milano, eccomi!

Yes, the riding position is tiring, but I resolve to do more push-ups. Yes, my teeth hurt after a long ride, but I resolve to do more sit-ups. When I wind up riding for 7 hours because I took a wrong turn somewhere near Breckenridge, I lie down on the garage floor and beg God to forgive my sins.

A few weeks later, while I’m rubbing my back at a stoplight, a guy on a BMW GS looking like his mother dressed him pulls up beside me. He nods at me kindly. I ignore him, lean down, grab the bars, and blip the throttle. When the light changes, I drop him. He hasn’t even shifted into first gear by the time I’m dragging my knee across the asphalt at the next curve.

I cackle inside my helmet.

An hour later, I’m lying across a barrel at the local filling station, a little old lady beating my back with a cane because I paid her $20.

Between moans I hear the mumble of a boxer engine approach. The Momma’s boy parks, jumps off the bike, gives me a cheerful greeting, and walks inside. When he returns, he hands me an ice cold water bottle.

Turns out he’s ridden 600 miles already, wants to get in another 300 by nightfall so he can complete his Iron Man 1500 Bun Burner. It’s a warmup for his trip to the Arctic Circle later this summer. He asks me if I know of a gym nearby where he can hit the weights before continuing.

Next day, I’m trading in my miserable, impractical, poser Ducati for a brand new BMW R1250 GS.

The GS can stay with the Ducati or any other sportbike under most street riding conditions. Electronic this. Lean-sensitive that. Active cruise control. Soon I’m strafing asphalt with my left hand on the bar, my right hand around a stogie, the GS electronically maintaining a safe distance from the bike in front of me. I might even google “Multitasking on a motorcycle” for suggestions.

A couple of months later, I don’t understand why I’m just not that into riding anymore. I’ve strafed all the good spots within a day’s ride. I’ve taken long multi-day rides in total comfort. I’ve explored some local dirt roads. It was a lot of fun the first time. Not too bad the second time. But I’m just not that into riding anymore. Something is missing.

And then, because there is a God, I see glinting in the sunlight the most perfect motorcycle ever made …

A week later I got rid of that boring-ass BMW, bought myself another Softail Heritage, and I feel ALIVE again. ALIVE!

I hum me some Lynyrd Skynyrd as I polish that chrome, wax the paint, and lovingly clean each and every spoke on those wire wheels. Life is good again. I’ve been given a second chance. I have no idea what the heck got into me, and I swear, with the conviction that only a returning Harlista can understand, that now that I’m home again, I will never, ever, under any circumstance, let that happen again. Ever. No matter what.

And then …

Regret the Second: Selling my ’08 Ducati Multistrada 1100S

I’ve bought and sold a lot of bikes. Too many, some would say. Maybe so, maybe not, but when you buy and sell enough bikes, you can spot the steals.

This ’08 Multi was one such bike. Some of you might not recall the ’08 financial crisis. It came close to being America’s Great Depression 2.0. If the government had not stuck its thumb in the eye of capitalist orthodoxy and temporarily nationalized America’s biggest banks, we would still be lining up to eat lunch at government soup kitchens instead of our favorite biker bar.

The government did, eventually, return those banks to stockholders, thank goodness. But yeah, shut up about the government interfering with free markets, will ya? Sometimes it actually rescues free markets.

Needless to say, around 2010, brand new ’08 motorcycles were relatively easy to find on showroom floors. And dealers wanted them gone. When I walked into my local Harley Davidson dealer in Colorado Springs, this shiny new S was sitting there, winking at me.

My first reaction was that it sure was odd looking, Pierre Tremblanche or no Pierre Tremblanche. Plenty of journalists thought the same thing.

Pic courtesy of TopSpeed

And yet, the more I looked at it, the more I was drawn to it. And little by little I realized that the design is inspired. Sure, it’s challenging at first, but then it flows. It surprises you. And it fits how the bike rides.

Oddly enough, many years later, I bought a BMW S1000XR, my favorite bike in a very long time, and it has dimensions eerily similar to those of the 1100S:

When I realized the ’08 was brand new and that the dealer was very anxious to get rid of it, I stole it. Then I rode it all over the Colorado front range. I wish I had taken more pictures, but I was too busy having fun.

I don’t actually remember what made me sell it. Probably the same angst that made Shel Siverstein write and Johnny Cash perform A Boy Named Sue.

Some girl’d giggle and I’d turn red. Some guy’d laugh and I’d bust his head.

That was Dear Old Dad’s favorite song. Social media spreads such a strong sense of prosperity in American that it’s easy to forget that not so long ago life was hard around these parts. Real hard. And it’s still hard for a lot of us. The trauma of that hardship still gets passed down from generation to generation, so much so that we sometimes confuse it for our national character. It ain’t our national character. It’s just shame of who we are and what we love, passed down from one generation to another.

Anyway, after another year of grinding away at a soul-sucking job, or maybe after getting yet another performance review that included phrases like “egregious offenses” and “doesn’t follow direction,” I suppose I arrived at the conclusion that I wasn’t cool enough to hold up such an odd-looking bike. I probably bought something that made me feel cool, made me feel like I had a soul again.

Too bad, because the 1100S was one helluva bike. It was light. It was nimble. It had character. It was comfortable. And I loved to look at it. Just plain loved looking at it.

Years later, Cycleworld agreed with me. Comparing it to the newer Multistrada, they said:

Handling on this 13-year old Ducati is a revelation.

By turning its gaze further afield, by adding more tech, more performance, and more capability in its journey from Multistrada to Molto-Multistrada, did Ducati abandon what made the original recipe such a delicacy?

A delicacy indeed. I’m no fan of the 1200 Multi. I tried real hard to get used to the design, but have always hated it. No matter how much lipstick they put on that beak, it’s just plain wrong.

Pic courtesy of CycleWorld

And the 1200 engine kinda leaves me … I dunno … dissatisfied. CycleWorld again:

As excellent as the engine is, the V4 lacks presence compared to the Multi 1100′s desmodue. When cruising at 60 mph, turning 4,000 rpm in top gear, the engine all but vanishes from thought. The desmodue makes an impression that never quite leaves the consciousness, being so visceral and engaging that the experience of using it stays with the rider long after hitting the kill switch.

So yeah, whether by caring too much what others said about me, or by burying my real self beneath the responsibilities of the job, I wound up doubting my own preferences, doubting my own good taste, doubting my true self, and I sold a special motorcycle I should have kept.

It was not the first time I did that, and it would not not be the last.

– Rick

Regret the First: Selling My ’02 Softail Deuce

The ’02 Softail Deuce was not my first motorcycle, but it was the first motorcycle I fell in love with.

I was living in Massachusetts at the time, a place that specializes in slow emasculation. That’s what the “mas” in the state name refers to. Live there long enough and you’ll understand.

To deal, I had to get out of town on what my riding buddy The Donster called “rage rides.”

They lasted about a week. I rode to Georgia. I rode to Wisconsin. I rode to Maine. I rode to West Virginia. Didn’t matter where. What mattered was getting out of Massachusetts. No better bike for a rage ride than the 5-speed 88″ Deuce. A 95″ motor would work, too, so long as it had a 5-speed.

And no windshield, please. Windshields on cruisers are fascist.

See, at 80 mph and up, a 5-speed kept you in the meat of the powerband. And the pipes loud. With my teeth clenched, my neck hardened against the wind, and my hands in a death grip on the bars, whatever was ailing me disappeared in the vibe of the motor, the roar of the pipes, and the blast of the wind.

I loved my rage rides.

I loved them even more when I started meeting up with other Deuce riders across the country for no damn reason except to check out each other’s rides and laugh. Damn, we laughed a lot. It was a time when laughter was valued more than sensitivity. People have forgotten how to laugh at themselves. And each other.

When I got home from my rides, I got to spend lots of time in the garage cleaning and caring for my Deuce, preparing it for the next ride.

What a treat that was.

Lo and behold, Covetousness crept into my little slice of heaven. The riding season in The State of Eunuch was short, and even shorter in the good riding country of Vermont and New Hampshire.

I was already using thick wind-proof fleece jacket and pants from Aerostich, plus gloves big as sleeping bags. It was not enough. So I bought a windshield to protect me against the New England November cold. That introduced me to the torture of buffeting. I tried to man up and deal, but I could not keep my eyeballs from rattling in their sockets no matter how long or hard I grit my teeth, so I bought fork-mounted wind deflectors.

The combination worked well, but it was, as someone in eMasculateachusetts would say, aesthetically inappropriate. Translation: fugly.

Now, you may not respect a Harley’s agility, comfort, or performance, but you must respect its beauty. That is non-negotiable. If you disagree, die.

Under the influence of Queen Covet, I set about looking for a bike that I could ride longer in colder weather. I ignored my instincts, told my gut to shut up, and forced myself to sell the Deuce so I could buy an ’04 Road Glide.

The Road Glide is a better bike. No doubt about it. It let me ride in colder weather and in more comfort. Unfortunately, it didn’t satisfy. I kept it about a year.

Many years later I bought another Deuce, just to relive the joy of the original, but I had changed. Motorcycling had changed.

Though I enjoyed riding it back to Colorado, Deuce 2.0 failed to satisfy. I wanted more than just a sweet engine. I wanted lean. I wanted a bike that could dance.

It’s true what they say: you can’t go home again.

Buying Motorcycles Is Maddening

The most maddening thing about buying and selling motorcycles is that it’s not the same person doing the buying and the selling.

Men have traditionally complained about women being like the sea, every changing, unpredictable, emotional, defying logic, caressing you one moment, bashing you against the rocks the next.

That is no doubt true, but thinking we are different is a delusion.

Inside five minutes, I can go from adoring Harley Davidsons …

… to hating them.

From concluding that BMW’s are the only logical choice for every single motorcyclist alive, bar none …

… and then deciding if I were seen in public sitting on one, I would die of shame.

Living inside my head I have a wild child, a safety-conscious boy scout, a teenager who just wants to be accepted, an artist who jumps for joy at the sight of a glorious paint job on a swooping piece of sheet metal, and a snarling, drooling beast begging for somebody to start something.

Complicating matters further, is the memory of perfect moments that we are perennially seeking to relive.

Plus the fact that we never stop changing. One year we care about following our bliss, the next about announcing our presence with authority.

As if that’s not enough, there’s marketing. Do you feel uncool? Let us sell you a motorcycle that will make you feel cool.

Want to be perceived as adventurous? We have just the model for you right here. Charly Boorman, watch out!

And then you have the opinions of well-meaning friends.

“A Harley?” What’s WRONG with you?”

“A BMW? What, you never want to get laid again?”

“WTF are you riding? A Ducati? You look like a monkey doing unspeakable things to a football.”

All of this, plus the wife and perhaps grown children raising an eyebrow just a little bit higher each time you go out and spend your hard-earned money on yet another decision the neighbors will never understand.

It can sometimes be too much.

God Bless Guffey

Guffey is one of those rare places where strange and wonderful things happen that you can’t quite explain but you know they happened because part of you keeps vibrating long after, like an aluminum bat that you whack against a light pole. And if you’re not convinced, stare for a while at the rocks around Guffey. Stare at those rocks long enough and you will start to believe that after the sun goes down druids come out from their secret entrances, gather in the open spaces, and howl like wolves during the full moon.

GuffyRocks

Guffey is in the middle of nowhere, a plus for motorcycle rides because it takes a while to leave the city behind. And, to appreciate the kind and friendly people of Guffey, you need to make sure the city is way the hell behind you.

Sadly, the Bull Moose has closed. On sunny Sunday afternoons Missus Fender Bunny and I danced among the locals on the big back deck. But the Coronas at Freshwater remains open, and the Guffey Garage always has a treasure or two lying around.

Truck

It was remarkably warm for March 7, but the high country was still in the 40’s when the usual suspects, Po Po Rada, Jace the Affable, Bad Ray and Andrea the Pillion, plus Steampunk Risk and BananaShana, led Missus Fender Bunny and me through the canyons and up into the mountains.

Missus Fender Bunny and I ride slow nowadays, so we were able to appreciate the iced-over river beside the road, and how a narrow stream of water slithered over the ice for a spell before sinking back under. We stopped at Deckers.

One of the joys of stopping at Deckers, besides how warm the sun is, is listening to all the bikes ride past and hoping the cool ones pull in to the parking lot so you can talk to the owner. The first bike I noticed ride past was a KTM. Exactly which one, I dunno, but it sounded good, like most KTMs.

Then my heart stopped. Something else was behind the KTM. I couldn’t quite make it out in the sun, but if Phil Collins possessed a moto the way demons are ‘sposed to possess people, the bike Mister Collins possessed would sound like that. I was spellbound. As it passed I realized it was Moto Guzzi’s new V85TT.

Guzzi

Wow. That soulful pounding stayed with me until the Guzzi disappeared behind the next curve.  I glanced at my trusty but tame ’11 GSA that cooked my meals and washed my laundry without complaint and knew I had sinned in my heart the way happily married men sin in their hearts when Scarlet Johansen makes them think they make her laugh.

scarlett-johansson

“If you have already sinned in your heart, why don’t you just go ahead and sin in your pocket book?”

That was the Devil on my left shoulder. Yeah. No. But don’t let me stop you. If you want to sin in your pocket book, you can read all about Moto Guzzi’s TT on Motorcyclist.

After warming up in Deckers we rode on to Woodland Park. While we were gassing up in Woodland Park our motley crew decided that, instead of continuing on to Guffey, they would hit the Neiman Marcus sale on men’s rompers before all the cute colors were gone.

romper

They scrambled onto their bikes and hurried back to the city. Missus Fender Bunny and I pressed on toward Guffey.

The road to Guffey is best taken slow. A measured pace reveals cows eating hay on the pastures painted gold by the afternoon sun. Horses with their muscular necks stretched all the way down to reach the hay their owner had dumped on the warm side of the barn. And llamas looking around in their pens, wondering why nobody speaks Spanish around these parts.

Como? Que cosa?

The cows, the horses, the llamas, and the pretty hills all around have a way of restoring your soul to its God-given groove.

CoolNails2

If you don’t decide to stop right THEN, and not any later, as you crest the ridge above the town of Guffey, you miss the glorious view of the Sangre de Cristos, one of the most majestic mountain ranges in America. We managed to pull over, even though there wasn’t much of a shoulder.

SideOfTheRoad

Next time I’m taking my good camera, dangit. If you squint at this picture you can see the Sangres. Wish I could have pulled them in with a good telephoto lens.

HondaSangres

Once in town we skirted the Guffey Garage and took a Right. Then we took a Left on Cañon street, rode past the Post Office and the Rolling Thunder Grill and took another Left on 8th street. We stopped at The Corona’s at Freshwater, which is where the fun began.

Bikes2

While Laura went inside to freshen up, I walked toward the bikes and trikes parked across the street. As I was inspecting the heavy metal, a really big guy in a watch cap approached me and asked me what I was up to.

I can’t stop staring at Harleys.

He smiled. What are you riding? I pointed to our bikes parked around the corner all by their lonesome.

GS_CB

Oh hell no.

That just won’t do, he said. Then he put his big arm around my shoulder and invited me to follow him inside.

The Freshwater is a rustic place with a welcoming feel. Not too many of those around, any more. Some of the newer places try to imitate the real thing, but they can’t pull it off because they don’t have the right people inside.

About a dozen veterans had ridden over from Colorado Springs and taken over the joint. By the time I walked in Missus Fender Bunny had announced to the room that she needed a hug and the vets were lined up, giving her hugs one after the other, some getting in line twice, the waitress patiently winding around the embraces to deliver burgers and fries.

LauraInside

You know how with some people you don’t even need to be introduced, you’ve just known them all your life? That’s how it was with the veterans and their wives. In a matter of minutes they were informing me that I could sit in the backwards chair as my service in the Chair Force only counted for 2/3, and I was splainin’ them that somebody needed to be smart enough to save their grunt asses from the Taliban. Or, for some of them, the Viet Cong.

I’m not really sure whether we actually did stand on the tables and sing verses of our respective service songs at each other or whether I just imagined it, we’re talking about Guffey after all, but before we knew it, we were  swapping stories about life in the service like old friends and the grill had become twice as big as it had been when we first walked inside.

It was decided that Missus Fender Bunny and I were riding with them to Cañon City and the Springs, and that was that. Before we left, each of us took turns stapling a dollar bill to the ceiling. Accustomed to this mountain tradition, we obliged.

RickStaplingDollar

Kindly forgive the neck torque, but I need to make a note about Evos. I’ve owned two Evo Softails. The Evo is favorite sounding Harley motor. Something about the Evo’s lope is lovely and it tops even the Twin Cam’s lope. But the two I owned and every other Evo I have test ridden or sat on vibrated terribly. In 30 minutes my hands would invariably go numb.

I noticed that the 99 Heritage a veteran named George was riding had steel grips. Most Evo Softails, because they’re solid-mounted to the frame (instead of rubber-mounted), have rubber or leather grips with tons of foam or other material to dampen the vibration. George’s Evo had steel grips.

Either you are the world’s toughest biker, or you have one smooth Evo.

I said to George. Instead of responding, he sat on his bike, pulled out the choke, and fired it up. At idle it vibrated plenty, of course. That’s part of the charm. But I rolled on the throttle and at what between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM, that steel grip was as smooth as the chrome on my Street Glide. Unbelievable. I’ve got to build me one, I decided. An EVO-powered Softail Custom.

SoftailCustom3

Or maybe another Fat Boy.

FatBoy

Damn if he doesn’t look like my pal Darrin, from Cotopaxi!

Anyway, we rode with the vets into Cañon City along route 9. These guys were good riders. A mixed flock of Harleys, Gold Wings, Indians, trikes, and what not. Plus Missus Fender Bunny on her Honda and me on the betrayed GSA. I’m not a fan of riding in formation, but these guys knew how to do it right. And do it well. We kept a good pace and, when traffic separated us, they got everyone back together as smoothly as an experienced wrangler gets strays back in line on a cattle drive.

Which reminds me, if you haven’t seen Lonesome Dove, see it.

LonesomeDove

We hung out a bit in Cañon City, exchanged warm good-byes, and mounted up and headed toward the Springs through some back roads that were new to me. In the Springs we split off and went our own way, Missus Fender Bunny and me full of good feelings for the veterans and, once again, without fail, for Guffey.

GodBlessGuffey

Of anger rides and love songs

When I missed Laura I used to go on an Anger Ride. Jump on my Harley and roar on the I-way for a while.

TheDogs

The Don used to call it a rage ride. He loved doing it in the middle of the night, when it was just him and the truckers and the road.

rickdeuce.jpg

Best bike for an anger ride was my 2002 Deuce because it only had 5 gears and at 90 mph it was loud. A few hours of that would fix me right up. The V-twin version of electro-shock therapy.

Over the years I mellowed.

So tonight, as I lie awake in a hotel room in a small town outside Stockholm, instead of trying to find a way to rent a Harley for a rage-on through Sweden, I’m listening to music.

IMG_2269

I can imagine Laura saying “No! Rent the Harley! Go rent the Harley!”

One of the great romantic songs of the pop era is Unchained Melody. Its lyrics were written by Hy Zaret and put to music by Alex North. Sung by the Righteous Brothers, they’re spellbinding:

Turns out several artists, including Roy Orbison and U2 have tried to record it. Sorry. Great musicians that they were, they all failed compared to the Righteous Brothers.

We don’t express ourselves like we used to. We retreat from romance as if it were a rattler on the trail. Maybe we’re afraid of longing and being rejected. That’s not surprising, since social media never leaves our Left shoulder, a worse censor than the most ardent prude Hollywood ever had to endure.

That’s too bad.

Give me eloquence. Give me beauty. Lend me expressions that warm my heart and make me take a long, slow breath or two.

Test of audio recordings

Testing these audio files for So Long John Wayne:

Light Peruvian accent

  • Chapter 1 – part 1

  • Prologue

American accent

  • Prologue

Terrible Boston accent (for Carol)

  • Prologue

Softer Boston accent like I imagine Danny from Lunenburg would read it

  • Prologue

Brr-Dam

OldColoradoCityIt was 16° F (-9° Celsius) when I left Perry Park at 7:45 this morning on my way to the Pikes Peak BMW Club meeting at Mother Muff’s Kitchen in Old Colorado City.

The Gear

Base layer for my torso was a thermal turtleneck from waaaaaaay back in the day.  The thing is warm, itchy, and indestructible.  Next was a thin cashmere V-neck sweater.  Cashmere is warm, soft, and can be had cheap at Jos A. Bank.  The combo is surprisingly warm, but leave the pipe and David Niven accent at home.

Over the top of the sweater I zipped up another old favorite, a fleece jacket from The North Face.  Finally, my trusty Klim.

I covered by bum and netheregions in the quick-dry UnderArmor motorcycle shorts, which are, oddly enough, cozy warm.  Then a pair of Hot Chilis.  Then a pair of casual BMW riding pants with the rain liner in.  Thermal socks.  Aerostich Combat Touring boots.

Under my Arai helmet but over my Klim jacket I worse a fleece balaclava, and just about pulled my back out making sure there were no leaks around the collar.  I put on an ancient pair of Dainese winter gloves, and turned the heated grips on my R1200RS to High.

Once you get all that gear on, the only cold weather hassle left is dealing with the fogging lens on your helmet.  Easy enough to manage, though: keep helmet open until you pick up some speed, and open it each time you slow down.  The RS has the stock shield, which directs plenty of air at my helmet, so that approach worked well for me.  Dealing with fogging would be more of a hassle on a bike with a full fairing.

The Ice Cream Headache

It was a sunny morning, but the Front Range was completely frosted over.  I didn’t take a picture, but this one is pretty close to what it looked like the entire route from Larkspur to Old Colorado City.

FrontRange

http://sergiophoto.photoshelter.com

It took about 5 minutes for the ice cream headache to show up.  It wasn’t the worst I’ve had, but I did have to concentrate to get past it.  My setup had no air leaks anywhere, and the heated grips kept one side of my hands warm.  The topside did get a bit chilly, but never numb.  The tips of my thumbs went numb, and my feet felt about as chilly as the top of my hands.

The only other rider I saw was a guy in jeans and a hoodie riding his 600 home along I-25.  I wonder what the story was behind that early morning ride.

Mother Muff’s Kitchen

I felt immediately comfortable with the crowd from Pike’s Peak BMW club.  Craig, Lee, and Bex were kind enough to invite me to sit with them.  It’s always nice when the locals are friendly to the new guy.  Made me glad I rode up there.

Mother Muffs is the red storefront at the upper right:

MotherMuffs

By the time I left, temps had warmed up to the low 40’s, so I stowed my gear, slipped on my flip-flips and Hawaiian shirt, and rode home singing Gypsies in the Palace.  The temps in Larkspur were only 36°F by the time I got home (around noon), but it still felt downright tropical compared to the first part of the ride.

Old Colorado City somehow manages to hang on to its low-rent charm at the foot of Pikes Peak.  I always enjoy riding down there.

OMR

Against the Wind

LL-Rock_md

There I was.

Somewhere in the Southwest.

Riding into a 30 mph headwind.

Again.

My teeth grit.  The ligaments on my neck popping.  My arms gripping the bars with the desperation of a monkey losing a tug of war for a clump of bananas.  Between the wind, the engine vibration, the lumpy road, and the semis passing me, my brain was turning to mush.

Little did I know the damned wind would push and shove me the whole way to Cortez.  And then to Tropic.  And Zion.  And Death Valley.  I would get a brief tail wind on 395, and then it would be all headwinds again all the way to Los Gatos.  I wouldn’t have minded, except that I didn’t have a windshield.

MightyKIt’s not that I’m opposed to windshields on principle.  It’s that they suck.  There have been exceptions.  Like the Mighty K.  A 2004 BMW K1200RS.  My summer fling while living in New England.  I’d dropped into a BMW dealership to keep a friend company, and I was smitten.  The faster that thing went, the better the wind flowed around me.  The Mighty K would have been ideal for the West.

Since I violate the Harley uniform guidelines by wearing earplugs and a big old Arai 3/4 helmet, Harley fairings and windshields rattle my eyeballs.  On account of that acoustic effect that occurs when the kids open the window in the back seat.

You ‘re too sensitive

Tyler Durden muttered in my ear before asking the Service Manager at San Jose Harley if he had any rope.

We’d stopped there to install a new set of tires since I’d worn my old ones down to the nubs.  It took a couple of hours on account of the rear wheel on the Softail Custom is a bear to get on and off.  The first time I changed my own I threw a lot of tools around the garage before I managed to fit that 200 mm tire in between the brake caliper and everything else that’s in the way.  Ever since, I’ve allowed the dealer to enjoy that particular pleasure.

While I was waiting, I wandered into the showroom, which is why the dealerships locate it  next to the Service Department.  A dozen shiny new touring Harleys, developed as part of Project Rushmore (a nod to the rebirth of the Indian Motorcycle Company), were lined up beside each other, sparkling.  Harley claims that Project Rushmore improved the notoriously bad airflow around the new touring bikes, among other things.RoadToad

Baggers are for for babies

Tyler would know.  That’s my 2004 Road Toad.  My first attempt at improving wind and comfort on long rides.   The fairing was as big as it looks in the picture. Maybe bigger.

The salesman ignored Tyler and pointed out the appeal of the Street Glide.  It’s a bonafide touring bike, he explained, but it’s still cool, like a 1969 Lincoln with suicide doors.

Tyler tied a knot into the rope the service manager had requisitioned for him.  While he did that, I thought about telling the salesman that when I want breakfast, I pound my fists against my chest and my woman brings me breakfast.  But the truth is, I’m the one who makes the coffee in the morning, both with cream, hers without sugar.  I gently wake her with the aroma.  Then we sit on the bed and talk about our feelings.

“Why don’t you take it for a test ride?”  The salesman asked, handing me the keys.

All salesmen must die

“Oh, I couldn’t,” I said sheepishly, ” I still have to ride my bike back to Colorado.”

2014-harley-davidson-electra-glide-ultra-classic-explicit-pictures-photo-gallery_2“It wouldn’t be the first time we’ve shipped a bike back home,” the salesman said as Tyler yanked on the kickstand of the first touring bike.

It toppled onto the silver one next to it, but the second bike was so massive it managed to hold up the first one.

Undaunted, Tyler walked to the other side of the lineup, lifted the Red Sunglo and Vivid Black Ultra Glide Limited off its sidestand, and pushed it over.  This time it worked.  Like a stack of dominoes, one 900 lb Project Rushmore behemoth after another toppled onto the one beside it until they hit the first two, which almost, almost managed to hold up the pile, but in the end gave in and toppled over with a loud crash.

Now you have room to get some real motorcycles in your store

Tyler handed the keys back to the salesman, who accepted them, standing there, as stunned as the sales manager who had just run out of his office.

That day’s distance from Springdale, Utah to Stovepipe Wells, in Death Valley, was 433 miles.  Elapsed time was 8 hours, including a one hour detour into North Las Vegas to get my expense receipts scanned, on account of Tyler made me blow that off before heading out.

The picture of the Harley Davidson Ultra Limited is courtesy of www.autoevolution.com.

GiG